*This post is completely inspired by Baby Rabies.*
[ETA: So this is a post I wrote in May, last year… hmm… somehow it never left the draft folder. Oops!]
Who knew that babies could eat board books? I thought that was what they were for, to be durable and baby proof-ish. Nope, not from OrangeBlossom. Apparently I have a lot to learn. One, if I knew that AppleBlossom would insist on sleeping on the floor I wouldn’t have bought her an awesome bed (we bought it and went to straight to toddler bed format when she was probably ten months old or so and had been walking over a month or two) much less a second one for OrangeBlossom… So as of now, there is a convertible bed set up as a toddler bed and a second one set up as a crib. I just found out about the Montessori bedrooms and had I know about them before, we would have just put the futon mattress down and be done with it!
Anyway… back on task. OrangeBlossom is eating everything! Forget the teething ring, she wants cardboard and wood. So now both her crib railing and the toddler railing on her big sister’s bed are getting munched on. Thinking it’s not healthy and it’s definitely not pretty so I needed to remedy that!
In step a search and discovery! I found a good tutorial that I was able to tweak a bit to get what works for me. A couple things… I wanted to use a selvage to selvage directional print and it’s a standard width with ~ 44 inches to it so that calls for a bit of measuring, cutting and piecing to get what I need. Secondly, I’m working with remnants.
- 1 yard of single face quilted fabric
- Scrap remnants or one Fat Eighth to coordinate on front rail pad (One-eighth yard of fabric that is usually cut to measure 9″ x 22″ rather than the typical one-eighth yard cut of 4.5″ x 42″.)
1. My railing on the front edge of the crib is flat and wide, so I had to measure it around the rail and then add on for a seam allowance. I measured 14 1/4″ so ideally I’ll cut 16 1/4″ x WOF (width of fabric). When I started this, I looked at my measurements and went to cut and realized only later when I was typing out my thoughts that I had been cutting for the side rails thinking it was for the front – so remember measure twice and double check your notes before you cut! Luckily for me it all worked out, because I had not cut the sides yet… My side rails are 10 1/2″ wrapped around, so I cut 12 1/2″ x WOF.
So after evening up and trimming off the selvage I’m left with a 12 1/2 x 45″ directional piece of fabric. For the side rails that totally works out because these measure 27″ across the inside top, or underneath where I’d need to make the connection to hold it on 24″. So now, I did a second cut to have this as a 12 1/2 x 29″ piece. Repeat and set aside.
2. Back to the front railing. This is where it gets a little bit tricky because of using a selvage to selvage directional print. I can cut myself a 16 1/2 x 44″, but that will leave me a bit short. Measuring the length of the inside of the rail from end to end in 50 1/2″ for me, so I need a 16 1/2 x 52 1/2″ strip. Just piecing on more of the same fabric would completely work, but I’m not a fan of how piecing the same fabric looks, especially because it is nearly impossible to line it up exact. So I jumped into my remnants bin and found a scrap of eyelet material and decided to force my creativity up a notch. I’m short about 8 inches and my scrap is plenty large enough. So from the eyelet scrap I cut 16 1/4 x width of the scrap. (This is where you can easily get away with a Fat Eighth, here use 9 x 16 1/4″ and acknowledge this in your piecing seam allowance.) Then in my case I cut the scrap in half to give me two 6 x 16 1/4″ strips.
Stitch the the two eyelet fabric strips to the focus fabric on either side using… Well, here you have two options. You can either sew the eyelet onto one side for a coordinated attachment or if your WOF allows you cut cut your main fabric down the center 16 1/2 x 1/2WOF and then piece the eyelet in the middle. And again, you could just piece on more of the same material if you desired.
3. Next comes the quilted fabric for the underside layer. Cut the quilted fabric to the size you want the rail cover to be when you’re finished. In my case again, I was working with remnants and had to piece a few things together.
4. On your workspace, place the focus fabric right side down and fold the sides about a half inch and crease with a hot iron. You can then grab some fabulous glass head pins (they don’t melt!) to place the quilted fabric.
5. Center the quilted fabric, wrong side to wrong side of focus fabric. The fold the focus fabric edges slightly over (about 1/4-1/2 inch) the edges of the quilted fabric and use those pins and iron a crease again.
6. Now here is where I go all fun with snaps! I took some bias tape (again remnants in my case, so you do not need a whole package) and cut about and inch, fold it half and set aside. I used 20 bits for making the three rail covers on the crib. I got out my snap press and on each bit of bias tape I placed a snap and receiving end. (For more specifics on buying and using a snap press, I recommend you check out KamSnaps.)
7. Back to the bed. I took the rail and put it in place and pinched it together with my fingers to find where I would like the snaps to meet in between the railings. For me, on the long front rail I used four locations, and on the side rails only three. I marked these with a water soluble ink marker for sewing. And back to the sewing machine I go.
8. Using the places I marked, I attached the two raw ends of the bias tape making sure to have the right side of the snap out to the right side of the focus fabric. Next I double checked that the snaps met up with the correct ends. And… wah-lah!
Now… I absolutely love this thing, but I really should have shared it a while back… After all, OrangeBlossom is converted to a toddler bed now [January 2013!]. We still use the ones on the side, and the one that I made for the toddler rail on AppleBlossom’s bed (since OrangeBlossom was gnawing on that as well) and maybe one day I’ll make one for the toddler rail on her bed as well.